This was demonstrated by an attempt to make the Hanfu part of China’s official national costume in 2008. although it was rejected by the government. The CPC has used these legacies as part of a wider effort to build support for Chinese policies at home and abroad, by presenting modern China as the latest stage of ‘five thousand years of Chinese civilisation’. The Qing Dynasty has also become part of the more contentious aspects of China’s imperial legacies. These rules have been presented in the recent discourses on this period as being a part of an effort by the Manchus to suppress Han culture including traditional clothing such as the Hanfu. These rules would further reinforce the perception of the Qing emperors as a privileged foreign elite in the eyes of the Han majority, who had still not fully accepted their rule, particularly in China’s southern regions which were the last strongholds of the Ming loyalists. This perception would have adverse consequences for the Qing that culminated in the events during the dynasty’s twilight years in the 19th century.
In the mid-Qing clothing, fashionable styles were associated to those worn in the late 16th and early 17th century. While the garb was initially popularised in the early 21st century through novels and period dramas, social media applications served as the driving force behind the present Hanfu craze, enabling enthusiasts to spread their passion for the costume on a far greater scale than before. This included regulations making the queue hairstyle compulsory, known as “cut the hair and keep the head or keep the hair and cut the head” (留髮不留頭，留頭不留髮) as well as requiring officials to wear Manchu garb. This has been notable in the backlash against other forms of Chinese clothing, such as the qipao, which has been seen as foreign ‘Manchu’ garb. The Xianbei rulers continued to wear own distinctive Xianbei clothing in order to maintain their ethnic identity and avoid merging with the Chinese majority population.
This initial promise was seemingly extinguished by the inward turn that China’s rulers took in the second half of the Ming Dynasty’s rule in the 16th and 17th centuries, symbolised by the dismantling of the Treasure Fleet after its’ return. These have often sought to present Ming China as a progressive force that was the most powerful nation of its’ day. If the Treasure Fleet symbolised the outward-looking promise of the early Ming dynasty, the Great Wall can be seen as a symbol of the inward turn of the Ming dynasty’s later years. As the last ethnically Han rulers of the Chinese Empire, the Ming has traditionally been seen as a dynasty that began its rule with great potential but ultimately fell short of its promise. The rule of the Qing Dynasty has often been seen as a period of alien rule, with China’s Manchu rulers distinguishing themselves from their Han subjects. The jiaoling youren started to be worn in the Shang dynasty in China.
This was articulated in Liu Mingfu’s 2015 bestseller The China Dream, which called for China to embrace a uniquely Chinese destiny as opposed to seeking convergence with the developed world. The series has been cited as a notable factor behind the popularity of the Hanfu, with viewers of the series seeking to acquire costumes and props worn by the cast. While the popularity of the Hanfu movement has been seen as a symbol of China’s past achievements, it has equally been the result of a discussion of the more contentious elements of China’s early modern period. While the black Hanfu remained a staple, its designs became more straightforward, with emphasis on cut and fit. Clothing became more structured, featuring symmetrical designs and rich embroidery, symbolizing Confucian ideals of harmony and hierarchy. The lower body is more complicated, mainly in a skirt, but on the whole, cheongsam plus size dress it is still natural and elegant. The guichang eventually became more popular than the guipao during this period as the set of attire ruqun itself had become more popular. As well as being seen as a period of alien rule, the Qing Dynasty has often been presented as an age characterised by China’s humiliation, marked by China’s defeat in the First Opium War of 1839. The later Qing period was an era beset by conflict and rebellion as well as several efforts to modernise the Qing Empire that ultimately failed.
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